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Chablis
Tasting notes by Rosemary George MW
Recommended wines
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) A delicate nose, with a hint of minerality. Nicely rounded with quite a firm steely palate and good fruit. Nicely balanced, but still fairly closed. Should develop well in bottle. Drink 2013-2016. (18.5 points)
£110/case (in bond) John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655)
Domaine William Fevre, Vaulorent, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Quite a delicate nose; quite fragrant palate, elegant and mineral, with a delicate finish; beautifully understated but expressive. Very fine minerality. Drink 2014-2019 (18.5 points)
£315-348/case (in bond) John Armit, London W11 (020 7908 0600), Avery’s of Bristol (01275 811100), Berry Bros & Rudd, SW1 (0870 900 4300), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Laytons (020 7288 8888), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine des Malandes, Tour du Roy, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis 2009
Quite a firm nose, with a structured palate, a touch of oak, which is well integrated and balanced with firm acidity. Almost the weight of a premier cru. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
approx £18.25/bottle George Hill, Leics (01509 212 717), Last Drop Wines, London SW10 (www.lastdropwines.com / 020 7 351 2973)
La Chablisienne, Chateau Grenouilles, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
The Chablisienne is one of the biggest vineyard holders of Chablis' smallest grand cru, including the two hectare plot attached to the small farmhouse in the cru, with older vines. Medium weight, elegant and long, with a firm finish. Drink 2015-2020. (17 points)
Domaine Laroche, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Les Clos is always the most structured and powerful of the grands crus, but this is also elegant, with refreshing fruit and acidity, while retaining a firm structured backbone. Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye has reduced the amount of oak ageing for his grands crus, and the benefit is there to be tasted in the glass, with some refined elegance. Drink 2014-2018. (18 points)
approx £75-85/bottle Liberty Wines, London SW8 (020 7720 5350)
Domaine Adhemar et Francis Boudin, Fourchaume, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) I've always had a soft spot for the wines of this estate ever since I met Adhémar Boudin when I was writing my first book on Chablis 30 years ago. He is now a spritely octogenarian, and it is his son Francis who makes the wine. This has quite a light elegant nose, with some leafy fruit on the palate, and not a trace of oak. Sufficient acidity and quite supple fruit, with some depth. Still quite closed; should develop in bottle. Drink 2013-2018. (18 points)
£114/case (in bond) Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet, les Forets, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Quite leafy elegant nose, dry and nutty, and on the palate, quite rounded and textured, with firm dry fruit. More floral than some. Good acidity. Drink 2015-2018. (17 points)
Approx. £165/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine des Malandes, Montmains, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Beautifully balanced; some weight and texture, offset by a hint of oak. Rounded with good acidity and an elegant finish. Drink 2013-2018. (18 points)
approx £13.60/bottle Avery's of Bristol (01275 811100), www.everywine.co.uk, Field & Fawcett, York (01904 489073), HG Wines, London EC1 (020 7251 0848), www.lastdropwines.com
Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Les Pargues, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis 2009
Incidentally, Stephan Moreau is not related to any of the other Moreau in Chablis. This wine has quite a leafy, elegant nose, and on the palate some rich, honeyed notes, but also firm balancing acidity and a good mouth feel. (Pargues is a vineyard site.) Drink 2013-2016. (17 points)
Approx. £111/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
La Chablisienne, La Pierrelee, Chablis 2009
The Chablisienne accounts for about a third of the production of Chablis, and serves its appellation well. La Pierrelée is the name of the vineyard. The wine has some firm stony fruit, with a good backbone of minerality, and more acidity than usual for the vintage. Drink 2011-2015. (17 points)
Domaine Bernard Defaix, Chablis 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Quite a rich leesy nose; with rich, rounded fruit on the palate, full and quite ripe, as you would expect from the vintage, but with good balancing acidity. Drink 2011-2016. (18 points)
£88/case (in bond) Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737)
Domaine Simonnet-Febvre, Montmains, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Quite full, leafy nose. Firm fresh acidity and minerality; elegance with a refreshing lift on the finish. Long, rounded and understated. Nicely balanced. Should be drinking well in 2014-2019. (18 points)
£154.29/case (duty paid / ex VAT) Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Domaine Long-Depaquit, les Vaudesirs, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Light leafy fruit. Fresh mineral fruit on the palate, with fresh acidity. Long and elegant. Drink 2014%u20132019. (17 points)
Domaine Louis Michel, Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Quite a delicate, elegant nose. The wines from this estate are never very forthcoming in their first flush of youth. This is elegant, but discreetly powerful, with the weight you would expect from a grand cru. Should develop well. Drink 2016-2020. (18 points)
Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065) £132/case of 6 bottles (in bond)
Domaine Jean Collet & Fils, Valmur, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
This is an old family estate, with just 50 ares of one grand cru, Valmur, which yields about 3000 bottles per year. The wine is fermented and aged in oak and it tastes quite solid, rounded and structured, with some firm mineral fruit and considerable weight and texture. Like most of the grands crus, it is still in vat and will not be bottled until the spring. Drink 2016%u20132019. (17 points)
Domaine Jean-Paul Droin, Vaillons, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Light colour; quite tight knit leafy fruit. A rounded palate; ripe and textured, with some weight. Quite mouth filling with a long finish. Drink 2016-2020. (17 points)
£78/case of 6 bottles; £145/case (all prices in bond) John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Gerard Tremblay, Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Gérard%u2019s son Vincent has now taken over the family vineyards in Poinchy, as his father has supposedly retired. Vaudésir spends time in both barrel and vat, and has some lovely nutty fruit and on the palate there is firm acidity with some nicely balanced flavours, with minerality and weight to develop further in the bottle. Drink 2014%u20132018. (17 points)
£21.46/bottle (in bond) Les Caves de Pyrene, Guildford (01483 538 820)
Domaine Pascal Bouchard, Petit Chablis 2009
Fresh easy fruit balanced with acidity. Nicely balanced with an elegant finish. A lovely introduction to Chablis. (17 points)
Jean-Marc Brocard, Vaudevey, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
More floral, with a broader palate and more weight than the Cote de Léchet. Riper but balanced with good acidity. A firm finish. Drink 2013-2017. (16.5 points)
Jean-Marc Brocard, Cote de Lechet, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Firm stony fruit on the nose, and the palate, it has the rounded character of the vintage, but balanced with some stony minerality. Medium weight. Drink 2013-2017. (17 points)
Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis 2009
I have long had a soft spot for Brocard's Vieilles Vignes, now from 60-65 year old vines. Good firm stony fruit on the nose and on the palate, some weight and texture, from the old vines, balanced with fruit and firm acidity. Good depth and a long finish. Drink 2011-2016. (18 points) Julian Baker Fine Wines
£15.99/bottle Cambridge Wine Merchants (01223 568 989)
Domaine Laurent Tribut, Montmains, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
This is still in vat, and will be bottled in the spring. Quite a rounded ripe nose, and on the palate quite full and leafy, ripe, with texture and substance and sufficient but not an enormous amount of acidity. For relatively early drinking. Drink 2012-2016. (17 points)
£170/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Pascal Bouchard, Blanchots, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Fermented and aged in French oak. Quite solid and nutty on both nose and palate, balanced with good acidity and an elegant finish. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
Domaine Alain Geoffroy, Vau Ligneau, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Lightly nutty on the nose, with a stylish palate; delicate fruit and an elegant finish. Nicely crafted. And already drinking well. Drink 2011-2016. (17.5 points)
£16.50/bottle Harvey Nichols, London SW1 (020 7201 8537)
Domaine Long-Depaquit, Moutonne, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Mathieu Mangenot's wine*** gets better and better with every vintage. For my taste buds he used to favour a bit too much lees stirring but with the 2009 vintage, as it is quite a ripe vintage, he has held back, and it shows in the glass. Moutonne is of course a bit of an anomaly, as it is not actually a grand cru in its own right, but a 2.35 hectare plot that is part of Vaudésir and Preuses. The wine is beautifully balanced, ripe and rounded, with good acidity, with the concentration and weight you'd expect from a grand cru, but not too heavy, just beautifully harmonious. And with plenty of ageing potential.Drink 2014%u20132019. (18 points)
£475/case (in bond) Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine Bersan & Fils, Cote d'Auxerre Rouge 2009
Pure Pinot Noir, with lovely fresh raspberry fruit. This is sheer pleasure in the glass, medium weight, a streak of tannin and lovely fruit, *** for easy drinking. The lack of acidity in the white wines of the Yonne is an advantage for the red wines, with one of the ripest of recent vintages. Drink 2011-2016. (18 points)
Domaine Laurent Tribut, Chablis 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Laurent Tribut is the brother-in-law of Vincent Dauvissat, from whom he learnt Laurent wine*** - and it shows, with some finely crafted wines, and sufficient, but not too much oak élevage. This is a classic example of the vintage. Quite a broad nose, rich and nutty, and on the palate quite mouth filling with some rich nutty textured fruit and a good balance of acidity. Drink 2011-2015. (17 points)
£120/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Vincent Dampt, Cote de Lechet, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) This has the richness of the vintage, with quite a ripe nutty nose - it almost makes you think the wine has been in oak when it most certainly has not. That is one of the intriguing characteristics of Chablis, its chameleon character that keeps you guessing. The palate is rounded and textured, with layers of flavour and a long finish. Drink 2013-2018. (17.5 points)
£170/case (in bond) Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre, Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
This comes from 40 year old vines, and one third is fermented and then aged in oak for 16 months. Quite tight knit, firm and nutty on the nose, with quite a full, rounded palate and sufficient balancing acidity. Drink 2014- 2018. (17 points)
£43.50/bottle Ellis of Richmond, Middx (020 8744 5550)
Domaine Fourrey & Fils, Chablis 2009
Good acidity; quite fresh and tight knit with a firm finish. Drink 2011-2015. (17 points)
approx £10.95/bottle Bijou Bottles Norfolk (01603 737 747), Stone, Vine & Sun, Winchester (01962 712 351)
Domaine William Fevre, Montmains, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Light colour. Quite a firm, dry almost nutty nose. Quite solid, rounded textured. Tight knit, firm fruit and good body. Quite substantial compared to the Vaulorent. Drink 2014%u20132019. (17 points)
£99/case of 6 bottles (in bond) Avery's of Bristol (01275 811100)
Domaine Fourrey & Fils, Cote de Lechet, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Light colour; lemony mineral nose; a fresh palate with a hint of honey; a firm streak of minerality and an attractive lift on the finish. (17.5 points)
approx £16.75/bottle Bijou Bottles Norfolk (01603 737 747), Stone, Vine & Sun, Winchester (01962 712 351)
Domaine William Fevre, Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Light colour; quite a delicate nose, and lovely ethereal quality to the wine. Very elegant, with minerality and acidity and a refreshing elegance, with a long delicate finish. The wine has just been bottled and needs time to develop in bottle, though it seems very accessible already. Drink 2014-2019. (18 points)
£455-480/case (in bond) John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), John E Fells, Herts (01442 870 900), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Laytons Wine Merchants mail order (020 7288 8888)
Domaine des Malandes, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
I tend to prefer Lyne Marchive's premiers crus to her grands crus. This is quite full and rich, nicely balanced, with some acidity, and already beginning to drink well. Drink 2012-18. (17 points)
approx £37.30/bottle George Hill, Leics (01509 212 717), www.underwoodwines.co.uk (01926 402 100)
Domaine Simonnet-Febvre, les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
This benefits from no oak at all. It has a delicate, rather ethereal nose. Good acidity on the palate, with focused minerality, and an elegant lift on the finish. Drink 2014-2020. (18 points)
£315.05 (duty paid / ex VAT) Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Domaine des Malandes, Petit Chablis 2009
Light nose; fresh with a hint of honey and some mineral acidity. A lovely introduction to Chablis. Drink 2011-2014. (16 points)
Domaine Simonnet-Febvre, Petit Chablis 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Light and leafy on the nose, with stony hints on the palate. Quite firm with some rounded fruit. Good example of the appellation and vintage. Drink 2011%u20132014. (16 points)
£89.89/case (duty paid / ex VAT) Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Domaine Laroche, Chablis 2009
Light colour; quite a rounded nose, with ripe mineral fruit and some balancing acidity. Very typical of the vintage. Drink 2011-2013/4. (16 points)
£13.99/bottle (Liberty Wines) Liberty Wines, SW8 (020 7720 5350), Premium Wine Collections, Norwich (01603 427554), Aitken Wines, Dundee (01382 221197), Butlers Wine Cellar, E Sus*** (01273 698724), Reserve Ltd, Manchester (0161 438 0101), Secret Cellar, Kent (01892 537981)
Domaine Bersan & Fils, Saint-Bris 2009
This is the intruder, the lone Sauvignon in Burgundy. In fact, Sancerre is not so many miles away. There is a hint of honey on the nose, with some minerality on the palate. Nicely textured with good acidity. Drink 2011-2014. (16 points) Julian Baker Fine Wines
£9.80-10.99 El Vino Company Ltd, London EC4, EC2 (020 7353 4948), Duncan Murray Wines, Market Harborough (01858 464 935)
Domaine Bersan & Fils, Cuvee Marianne Bersan, Bourgogne Cote d'Auxerre 2009
This is Chardonnay, but not Chablis, from 40 year old vines grown in the Yonne valley. Compared to Chablis, it is riper, fuller and more rounded, with some buttery fruit. Drink 2011-2015. (16 points)
Domaine Pascal Bouchard, Fourchaume, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Quite a firm nutty nose; and on the palate some leafy mineral fruit, balanced with acidity. Quite fresh and youthfulDrink 2013-2017. (16 points)
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2009
Quite a solid, substantial mouthful. Quite dense and rich, with balancing acidity. Well integrated oak, but will benefit from some bottle age. Drink 2013-2020. (16 points)
tbc Classic Wine, Co Down NI (02891 478 982), Pol Roger, Hereford (01432 262 800)
